Emollients and cosmetic preparations

ABSTRACT

Compounds of the formula (I): 
                         
wherein each of R 1 -R 12  is independently hydrogen or a linear C 1-20  alkyl group each of A 1  and A 2  is a 1, 2 or 3 ring carbon atom wherein A 1  is substituted by R 9  and R 10  and A 2  is substituted by R 11  and R 12 ; and wherein at least one of R 1 -R 12  is a linear alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms are emollients for use in cosmetics, lubricants and pharmaceutical preparations.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

This application claims priority of German patent application number 102 54 315.1, filed on Nov. 21, 2002.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

This invention relates to new dicyclic oil components, to cosmetic compositions containing these dicyclic oil components and to a process for the production of the dicyclic oil components.

Cosmetic skin-care and hair-care emulsions are expected by the consumer to satisfy a number of requirements: apart from the cleaning and care effects which determine the particular application, importance is attributed to such different parameters as high dermatological compatibility, good lipid layer enhancing properties, elegant appearance, optimal sensory impression and stability in storage.

Besides a number of surface-active substances, preparations used to clean and care for the human skin and hair generally contain above all oil components and water. The oil components (emollients) used include, for example, hydrocarbons, ester oils and vegetable and animal oils/fats/waxes. In order to meet stringent commercial requirements in regard to sensory properties and optimal dermatological compatibility, new oil components and emulsifier mixtures are being continually developed and tested.

The problem addressed by the present invention was to provide emollients based on hydrocarbons which would have very good spreading behavior. These emollients would have a light feeling on the skin and would show very good dermatological compatibility.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

It has surprisingly been found that certain alkyl-substituted nonaromatic dicyclic compounds solve this problem. Accordingly, the present invention relates to nonaromatic dicyclic compounds containing a structural unit corresponding to general formula (I):

wherein each of R₁-R₁₂ is independently hydrogen or a linear C₁₋₂₀ alkyl group, each of A₁ and A₂ is a 1, 2 or 3 ring carbon atom wherein A₁ is substituted by R₉ and R₁₀ and A₂ is substituted by R₁₁, and R₁₂; and wherein at least one of R₁-R₁₂ is a linear alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

Nonaromatic dicyclic compounds containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms in the ring are preferred. A hexamethyl dicyclopentane obtainable by aldol condensation of 2,2,4-trimethyl cyclopentanone and subsequent hydrogenation and a hexamethyl dicyclohexane obtainable by aldol condensation of 2,2,4-trimethyl cyclohexanone and subsequent hydrogenation are particularly preferred.

The present invention also relates to a process for producing nonaromatic dicyclic compounds of the formula (I) comprising the steps of: (a) reacting a cycloalkanone of the formula (II):

wherein each of R₁₃-R₁₈ is independently hydrogen or a linear C₁₋₂₀ alkyl group; A is a 1, 2 or 3 ring carbon atom substituted by R₁₇ and R₁₈ with a base to form an aldol condensation product; (b) forming a neutralised product by contacting the aldol condensation with acid; (3) hydrogenating the neutralised product.

Preferred educts are cycloalkanones (a) containing 5 or 6 ring carbon atoms. In a particularly preferred embodiment, 2,2,4-trimethylcyclopentanone or 2,2,4-trimethylcyclohexanone is used as the cycloalkanone (a).

The dicyclic compounds according to the invention are distinguished by good spreading behavior on the skin and are therefore eminently suitable for use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical preparations.

Accordingly, the present invention also relates to cosmetic preparations containing at least one dicyclic compound corresponding to formula (I):

wherein each of R₁₋₁₂ is independently hydrogen or a linear C₁₋₂₀ alkyl group each of A₁ and A₂ is a 1, 2 or 3 ring carbon atom wherein A₁ is substituted by R₉ and R₁₀ and A₂ is substituted by R₁₁ and R₁₂; and wherein at least one of R₁-R₁₂ is a linear alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

Cosmetic preparations containing a hexamethyl dicyclopentane of formula (III) and/or a hexamethyl dicyclohexane of formula (IV)

as the nonaromatic dicyclic compound are particularly preferred.

The cosmetic preparations contain the nonaromatic dicyclic compounds in quantities of preferably 0.1 to 50% and more preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the composition as a whole. They are preferably used in the cosmetic compositions as emollients or lipid layer enhancers, but may also be used as lubricants or as solubilizers in pharmaceutical preparations.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention are preferably body care formulations, for example creams, milks, lotions, sprayable emulsions, products for eliminating body odor, etc. The compounds according to the invention may also be used in surfactant-containing formulations such as, for example, foam and shower baths, hair shampoos and care rinses. Depending on the particular application envisaged, the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives such as, for example, surfactants, other oil components, emulsifiers, pearlizing waxes, consistency factors, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes, etc. which are listed by way of example in the following.

Surfactants

The surfactants present may be anionic, nonionic, cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. In surfactant-containing cosmetic preparations such as, for example, shower gels, foam baths, shampoos, etc., at least one anionic surfactants is preferably present. In this case, the percentage content of surfactants is normally about 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight and more particularly 10 to 20% by weight.

Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene-sulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkylether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfofatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylamino acids such as, for example, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partly oxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides or glucuronic acid derivatives, fatty acid-N-alkyl glucamides, protein hydrolyzates (particularly wheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they may have a conventional homolog distribution, although they preferably have a narrow-range homolog distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, for example dimethyl distearyl ammonium chloride, and esterquats, more particularly quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. The surfactants mentioned are all known compounds. Information on their structure and production can be found in relevant synoptic works in this field. Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, i.e. particularly dermatologically compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and/or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, α-olefin sulfonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or protein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheat proteins.

Oil Components

Body care preparations, such as creams, lotions and milks, normally contain a number of other oil components and emollients which contribute towards further optimizing their sensory properties. The oil components are normally present in a total quantity of 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 5 to 25% by weight and more particularly 5 to 15% by weight. Suitable oil components are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols containing 6 to 18 and preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C₆₋₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearyl erucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearyl behenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleyl erucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenyl isostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucyl myristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyl oleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters of linear C₆₋₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, more particularly 2-ethyl hexanol, esters of C₁₈₋₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, more especially Dioctyl Malate, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (for example propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C₆₋₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono-, di- and triglyceride mixtures based on C₆₋₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, more particularly benzoic acid, esters of C₂₋₁₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C₆₋₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as Dicaprylyl Carbonate (Cetiol® CC) for example, Guerbet carbonates based on C₆₋₁₈ and preferably C₈₋₁₀ fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branched C₆₋₂₂ alcohols (for example Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or nonsymmetrical dialkyl ethers containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as Dicaprylyl Ether (Cetiol® OE) for example, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicone, silicon methicone types, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkyl cyclohexanes.

Emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups:

-   -   products of the addition of 2 to 30 mol ethylene oxide and/or 0         to 5 mol propylene oxide onto linear C₈₋₂₂ fatty alcohols, onto         C₁₂₋₂₂ fatty acids, onto alkyl phenols containing 8 to 15 carbon         atoms in the alkyl group and onto alkylamines containing 8 to 22         carbon atoms in the alkyl group;     -   alkyl oligoglycosides containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the         alkyl group and ethoxylated analogs thereof;     -   addition products of 1 to 15 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil         and/or hydrogenated castor oil;     -   addition products of 15 to 60 mol ethylene oxide onto castor oil         and/or hydrogenated castor oil;     -   partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,         linear or saturated, branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22         carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18         carbon atoms and addition products thereof onto 1 to 30 mol         ethylene oxide;     -   partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of         self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight         400 to 5,000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar         alcohols (for example sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (for example         methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and         polyglucosides (for example cellulose) with saturated and/or         unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing 12 to 22         carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids containing 3 to 18         carbon atoms and addition products thereof onto 1 to 30 mol         ethylene oxide;     -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and         fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of fatty acids containing 6 to         22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, preferably glycerol         or polyglycerol,     -   mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and/or         tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and salts thereof,     -   wool wax alcohols,     -   polysiloxane/polyalkyl/polyether copolymers and corresponding         derivatives,     -   block copolymers, for example Polyethyleneglycol-30         Dipolyhydroxystearate;     -   polymer emulsifiers, for example Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) of         Goodrich;     -   polyalkylene glycols and     -   glycerol carbonate.         Ethylene Oxide Addition Products     -   The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide         onto fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or onto castor         oil are known commercially available products. They are homolog         mixtures of which the average degree of alkoxylation corresponds         to the ratio between the quantities of ethylene oxide and/or         propylene oxide and substrate with which the addition reaction         is carried out. C_(12/18) fatty acid monoesters and diesters of         addition products of ethylene oxide onto glycerol are known as         refatting agents for cosmetic formulations.         Sorbitan Esters     -   Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan         sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan         triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,         sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate,         sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate,         sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan         diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan         monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan         dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan         monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate,         sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan         sesquicitrate, sorbitan dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan         monomaleate, sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate,         sorbitan trimaleate and technical mixtures thereof. Addition         products of 1 to 30 and preferably 5 to 10 mol ethylene oxide         onto the sorbitan esters mentioned are also suitable.         Polyglycerol Esters     -   Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are         Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH),         Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4         Isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate,         Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan® PDI),         Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450),         Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate         (Polyglycerol Caprate T20 10/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether         (Chimexane® NL), Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32)         and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403), Polyglyceryl         Dimerate Isostearate and mixtures thereof. Examples of other         suitable polyolesters are the mono-, di- and triesters of         trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid,         cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid,         oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1         to 30 mol ethylene oxide.         Anionic Emulsifiers     -   Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids containing         12 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, palmitic acid,         stearic acid or behenic acid and dicarboxylic acids containing         12 to 22 carbon atoms such as, for example, azelaic acid or         sebacic acid.         Amphoteric and Cationic Emulsifiers     -   Other suitable emulsifiers are zwitterionic surfactants.         Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which         contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one         carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.         Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called         betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates,         for example cocoalkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate,         N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethyl ammonium glycinates, for example         cocoacylaminopropyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate, and         2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazolines containing 8         to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and         cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate. The         fatty acid amide derivative known under the CTFA name of         Cocamidopropyl Betaine is particularly preferred. Ampholytic         surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers. Ampholytic         surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a         C_(8/18) alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino         group and at least one —COOH— or —SO₃H— group in the molecule         and which are capable of forming inner salts. Examples of         suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkyl glycines, N-alkyl         propionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids,         N-alkyliminodipro-pionic acids,         N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropyl glycines, N-alkyl taurines,         N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and         alkylaminoacetic acids containing around 8 to 18 carbon atoms in         the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants         are N-coco-alkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl         aminopropionate and C_(12/18) acyl sarcosine. Finally, cationic         surfactants are also suitable emulsifiers, those of the         esterquat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid         triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.         Fats and Waxes

Fats and waxes are added to the body care products both as care components and to increase the consistency of the cosmetic preparations. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid, vegetable or animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Fatty acid partial glycerides, i.e. technical mono- and/or diesters of glycerol with C₁₂₋₁₈ fatty acids, such as for example glycerol mono/dilaurate, palmitate or stearate, may also be used for this purpose. Suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espartograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. Besides the fats, other suitable additives are fat-like substances, such as lecithins and phospholipids. Lecithins are known among experts as glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Accordingly, lecithins are also frequently referred to by experts as phosphatidyl cholines (PCs). Examples of natural lecithins are the kephalins which are also known as phosphatidic acids and which are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. By contrast, phospholipids are generally understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycero-phosphates) which are normally classed as fats. Sphingosines and sphingolipids are also suitable.

Pearlizing Waxes

Suitable pearlizing waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxysubstituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols containing 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency Factors and Thickeners

The consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferably used. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil® types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxy-ethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for example Carbopols® and Pemulen types [Goodrich]; Synthalens® [Sigma]; Keltrol types [Kelco]; Sepigel types [Seppic]; Salcare types [Allied Colloids]), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Other consistency factors which have proved to be particularly effective are bentonites, for example Bentone® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox) which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, Disteardimonium Hectorite and propylene carbonate. Other suitable consistency factors are surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, narrow-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride.

Superfatting Agents

Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.

Stabilizers

Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminum and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400®, cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat® L, Grünau), quaternized wheat poly-peptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Cartaretine®, Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyl diallyl ammonium chloride (Merquat® 550, Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and crosslinked water-soluble polymers thereof, cationic chitin derivatives such as, for example, quaternized chitosan, optionally in microcrystalline distribution, condensation products of dihaloalkyls, for example dibromobutane, with bis-dialkylamines, for example bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17, Jaguar® C-16 of Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers such as, for example, Mirapol®A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 of Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamido-propyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl-amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Silicone Compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethyl polysiloxanes, methylphenyl polysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/or alkyl-modified silicone compounds which may be both liquid and resin-like at room temperature. Other suitable silicone compounds are simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

UV Protection Factors and Antioxidants

UV protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, organic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat. UV-B filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. The following are examples of oil-soluble substances:

-   -   3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and         derivatives thereof, for example         3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor;     -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably         4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester,         4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid-2-octyl ester and         4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl ester;     -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic         acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester,         4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic         acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene);     -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyl         ester, salicylic acid-4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid         homomenthyl ester;     -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably         2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,         2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,         2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;     -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic         acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester;     -   triazine derivatives such as, for example,         2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine         and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb® HEB);     -   propane-1,3-diones such as, for example,         1-(4-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione;     -   ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives.

Suitable water-soluble substances are

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline         earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and         glucammonium salts thereof;     -   sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably         2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and salts         thereof;     -   sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor such as, for         example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)-benzene sulfonic acid and         2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)-sulfonic acid and salts         thereof.

Typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives of benzoyl methane such as, for example, 1-(4′-tert.butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoyl methane (Parsol® 1789) or 1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)-propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. The UV-A and UV-B filters may of course also be used in the form of mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoyl methane, for example 4-tert.butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester (Octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethyl hexyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester and/or 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester. Combinations such as these are advantageously combined with water-soluble filters such as, for example, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts thereof.

Besides the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light-blocking pigments, i.e. finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, may also be used for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium oxide, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talcum), barium sulfate and zinc stearate may be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and more preferably between 15 and 30 nm. They may be spherical in shape although ellipsoidal particles or other non-spherical particles may also be used. The pigments may also be surface-treated, i.e. hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) and Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating materials are, above all, silicones and, among these, especially trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sun protection products. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

Besides the two groups of primary sun protection factors mentioned above, secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type may also be used. Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (for example glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for example α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters thereof) and their salts, dilaurylthiodipropionate, distearyl-thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and sulfoximine compounds (for example butionine sulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, butionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and hepta-thionine sulfoximine) in very small compatible dosages (for example pmol to μmol/kg), also (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrine), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturated fatty acids and derivatives thereof (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives thereof (for example ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (for example vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin resin, rutinic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butyl hydroxytoluene, butyl hydroxyanisole, nordihydro-guaiac resin acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof (for example ZnO, ZnSO₄), selenium and derivatives thereof (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and derivatives of these active substances suitable for the purposes of the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids).

Biogenic Agents

In the context of the invention, biogenic agents are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, α-glucans, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, for example prune extract, bambara nut extract, and vitamin complexes.

Deodorants and Germ Inhibitors

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors. Body odors are formed through the action of skin bacteria on apocrine perspiration which results in the formation of unpleasant-smelling degradation products. Accordingly, deodorants contain active principles which act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.

Germ Inhibitors

-   -   Basically, suitable germ inhibitors are any substances which act         against gram-positive bacteria such as, for example,         4-hydroxybenzoic acid and salts and esters thereof,         N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)-urea,         2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenylether (triclosan),         4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,         2,2′-methylene-bis-(6-bromo-4-chlorophenol),         3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)-phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,         3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-propane-1,2-diol, 3-iodo-2-propinyl butyl         carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC),         antibacterial perfumes, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, clove oil,         menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol         monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol monolaurate (GML),         diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic acid-N-alkylamides such         as, for example, salicylic acid-n-octyl amide or salicylic         acid-n-decyl amide.         Enzyme Inhibitors     -   Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase         inhibitors. Esterase inhibitors are preferably trialkyl         citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate,         triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular,         triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT). Esterase inhibitors inhibit         enzyme activity and thus reduce odor formation. Other esterase         inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for         example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and         sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters         thereof, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl         ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid         monoethyl ester, adipic acid diethyl ester, malonic acid and         malonic acid diethyl ester, hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters         thereof, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or         tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

Odor Absorbers

-   -   Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are capable of         absorbing and largely retaining the odor-forming compounds. They         reduce the partial pressure of the individual components and         thus also reduce the rate at which they spread. An important         requirement in this regard is that perfumes must remain         unimpaired. Odor absorbers are not active against bacteria. They         contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or         special perfumes of largely neutral odor known to the expert as         “fixateurs” such as, for example, extracts of ladanum or styrax         or certain abietic acid derivatives as their principal         component. Odor maskers are perfumes or perfume oils which,         besides their odor-masking function, impart their particular         perfume note to the deodorants. Suitable perfume oils are, for         example, mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural         perfumes include the extracts of blossoms, stems and leaves,         fruits, fruit peel, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and         branches, resins and balsams. Animal raw materials, for example         civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume         compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone,         alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of         the ester type are benzyl acetate, p-tert.butyl         cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate,         linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate,         styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for         example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for         example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,         citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen         aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of         suitable ketones are the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone.         Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol,         geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The         hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However,         it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds         which, together, produce an agreeable fragrance. Other suitable         perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility         which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage         oil, camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon         leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil,         olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The         following are preferably used either individually or in the form         of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral,         citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde,         geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool,         Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus         oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal,         lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon,         cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP,         evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate,         benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat.         Antiperspirants     -   Antiperspirants reduce perspiration and thus counteract underarm         wetness and body odor by influencing the activity of the eccrine         sweat glands. Aqueous or water-free antiperspirant formulations         typically contain the following ingredients:     -   astringent active principles,     -   oil components,     -   nonionic emulsifiers,     -   co-emulsifiers,     -   consistency factors,     -   auxiliaries in the form of, for example, thickeners or         complexing agents and/or     -   non-aqueous solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene         glycol and/or glycerol.     -   Suitable astringent active principles of antiperspirants are,         above all, salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc. Suitable         antihydrotic agents of this type are, for example, aluminum         chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate,         aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for         example with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminum hydroxyallantoinate,         aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate,         aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium         pentachlorohydrate and complex compounds thereof, for example         with amino acids, such as glycine. Oil-soluble and water-soluble         auxiliaries typically encountered in antiperspirants may also be         present in relatively small amounts. Oil-soluble auxiliaries         such as these include, for example,     -   inflammation-inhibiting, skin-protecting or pleasant-smelling         essential oils,     -   synthetic skin-protecting agents and/or     -   oil-soluble perfume oils.     -   Typical water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives,         water-soluble perfumes, pH adjusters, for example buffer         mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble         natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum,         hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular         weight polyethylene oxides.         Film Formers

Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.

Antidandruff Agents

Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimethylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol® (4-acetyl-1-{4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}-piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein/undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

Swelling Agents

Suitable swelling agents for aqueous phases are montmorillonites, clay minerals, Pemulen and alkyl-modified Carbopol types (Goodrich).

Insect Repellents

Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, pentane-1,2-diol or 3-(N-n-butyl-N-acetylamino)-propionic acid ethyl ester), which is marketed under the name of Insect Reppelent® 3535 by Merck KGaA, and butyl acetylaminopropionate.

Self-tanning Agents and Depigmenting Agents

A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosine inhibitors which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, koji acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Hydrotropes

In addition, hydrotropes, for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols, may be used to improve flow behavior. Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;     -   alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol,         diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene         glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight         of 100 to 1000 dalton;     -   technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of         self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as, for example, technical         diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by         weight;     -   methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane,         trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and         dipentaerythritol;     -   lower alkyl glucosides, particularly those containing 1 to 8         carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl         glucoside;     -   sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example         sorbitol or mannitol,     -   sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms, for example glucose or         sucrose;     -   amino sugars, for example glucamine;     -   dialcoholamines, such as diethanolamine or         2-aminopropane-1,3-diol.         Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the silver complexes known under the name of Surfacine®) and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikv rordnung (“Cosmetics Directive”).

Perfume Oils and Aromas

Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural perfumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Animal raw materials, for example civet and beaver, may also be used. Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Examples of perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.butyl cyclohexylacetate, linalyl acetate, dimethyl benzyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal. Examples of suitable ketones are the ionones, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone. Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable perfume. Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil. The following are preferably used either individually or in the form of mixtures: bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillat, irotyl and floramat.

Suitable aromas are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseed oil, Japanese anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, citrus oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like.

Dyes

Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes. Examples include cochineal red A (C.I. 16255), patent blue V (C.I. 42051), indigotin (C.I. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.I. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.I. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.I. 77891), indanthrene blue RS(C.I. 69800) and madder lake (C.I. 58000). Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye. These dyes are normally used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Procedure for the Preparation of Hexamethyl Dicyclopentane

Aldol Reaction

13.6 g potassium hydroxide (solid) were added to 200 g (1.59 mol) trimethyl cylopentanone, followed by heating with stirring to 150° C. After the removal of—in all—4.3 g water of reaction over a period of 3 hours, a red-brown substance was obtained in a yield of 147.5 g and was then washed until neutral with 200 ml acidified distilled water. According to GC analysis, 13% of the 145 g of product mixture left after washing consisted of educt and 86% of unsaturated ketone. The product mixture was separated by fractional distillation.

Hydrogenation

4.4% by weight of a nickel-containing hydrogenation catalyst (Nysofact 101 IQ) were added to 100 g of α,β-unsaturated ketone, followed by heating to 245° C., a hydrogen pressure of 20 bar being applied for 10 hours. After termination of the reaction, the mixture was cooled to room temperature and the mixture obtained (90 g) was purified by fractional distillation. The hexamethyl dicyclopentane was obtained in a purity of 99%.

Example 2 Procedure for the Preparation of Hexamethyl Dicyclohexane

Aldol Reaction

25 g KOH (solid) were added to 500 g (3.57 mol) 3,3,5-trimethyl cylohexanone, followed by heating with stirring for 3 hours to 165° C. After the end of the reaction, the mixture was washed until neutral with water (acidified with hydrochloric acid) and separated by distillation from unreacted educt, water and high-boiling components.

Hydrogenation

4.4% by weight of a nickel-containing hydrogenation catalyst (Nysofact 101 IQ) were added to 100 g of α,β-unsaturated ketone, followed by heating to 245° C., a hydrogen pressure of 20 bar being applied for 10 hours. After termination of the reaction, the mixture was cooled to room temperature and the mixture obtained (90 g) was purified by fractional distillation. The hexamethyl dicyclohexane was obtained in a purity of 99%.

Example 3 Procedure for Determining Water Absorption Capacity

5 g of the oil component to be tested and 95 g ethanol were weighed into a 250 ml glass beaker (tall form) and heated to 20° C. The solution was then stirred with a 30 mm stirring fish on a magnetic stirring plate at around 300 r.p.m. Using a Dosimat, distilled water was then added until the solution remained distinctly cloudy for at least 10 s.

Oil component Water absorption capacity Hexamethyl dicyclopentane of formula (III) 53 g Hexamethyl dicyclohexane of formula (IV)  9 g Cetiol S  4 g Diethylhexylcyclohexane Eutanol G 28 g Octyl dodecanol Eutanol G 16 42 g Hexyldecanol

Example 4 Cosmetic Preparation A

Composition A/INCI name Quantities in % by weight Eumulgin B2 2 Ceteareth-20 Lanette O 5 Cetearyl Alcohol Hexamethyl dicyclohexane of formula (IV) 16 Glycerol (99.5%) 3 Water 73.85 Formalin (37%) 0.15

Emulsion A was stable for 3 months at the following temperatures: −5° C., room temperature and 40° C.

Example 5 Cosmetic Preparation B

Composition B/INCI name Quantities in % by weight Dehymuls PGPH 5 Polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate Hexamethyl dicyclohexane of formula (IV) 20 Glycerol (99.5%) 5 MgSO₄ × 7 H₂O 1 Water 69.85 Formalin (37%) 0.15

Emulsion B was stable for 3 months at the following storage temperatures: −5° C., room temperature, 40° C., 45° C. and 50° C. 

1. A cosmetic preparation comprising a hexamethyl dicyclopentane compound of the formula (III):


2. A cosmetic preparation comprising a hexamethyl dicyclohexane compound of the formula (IV):


3. The cosmetic preparation of claim 1, wherein the amount of the compound present in the cosmetic preparation is from 0.1% to 50% by weight of the cosmetic preparation.
 4. The cosmetic preparation of claim 1, wherein the amount of the compound present in the cosmetic preparation is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the preparation.
 5. A pharmaceutical composition comprising a hexamethyl dicyclopentane compound of the formula (III):


6. A pharmaceutical composition comprising a hexamethyl dicyclohexane compound of the formula (IV):


7. The cosmetic preparation of claim 2 wherein the amount of the compound present in the cosmetic preparation is from 0.1% to 50% by weight of the cosmetic preparation.
 8. The cosmetic preparation of claim 2 wherein the amount of the compound present in the cosmetic preparation is from 0.1% to 30% by weight of the cosmetic preparation. 